Mamiya · Medium Format SLR · Mamiya RB67
Mamiya RB67 Pro-SD
Mamiya shipped the first RB67 in 1970 as a studio camera that did not need a tripod head to switch from portrait to landscape. You just rotated the back. The Pro-SD arrived two decades later as the last and best version of that idea, with a wider lens throat so the newer K/L glass could cover the bigger image circle, and it stayed in catalogs until the early 2000s when digital finally ate the commercial studio. This was never a field camera pretending to be portable. It was built to live on a stand and shoot people all day.
Pick one up and the first thing you notice is that it weighs about as much as a small dog. All metal, no electronics, fully mechanical. The shutter sits in the lens, a leaf shutter that cocks with the same stroke that advances the film, and it makes a polite clack instead of the cannon-fire mirror slap you get from a Pentax 67. You focus by rolling a bellows in and out with a big knob on the side, which means real macro without tubes and which also means the bellows steals light as you rack it out for close work. The body knows nothing about that. It has no meter at all.
The waist-level finder shows you a huge ground glass, bright in the middle and dim in the corners the way every 6x7 finder is, and the image is reversed left to right, which scrambles your brain for the first week and then disappears. That rotating back is the whole point. Frame a headshot vertical, twist, and the next frame is a horizontal of the same setup without touching the tripod. The 6x7 negative is the other point. Ten frames on a roll of 120, each one a slab of film that holds up to a wall print with grain you have to hunt for.
Because the shutter is a leaf shutter, it flash syncs at every speed up to the top, around 1/400, so you can drag a strobe against bright sun and actually overpower it. That is the move this camera exists for. Since there is no built-in meter, a daylight-fill reading from the Zone Light Meter app pairs naturally with that all-speeds sync when you are balancing strobe against daylight, and an incident or spot reading sets your base exposure on the lens.
The honest weakness is obvious the moment you try to walk around with it. It is heavy, slow, and deliberate, and the bellows-extension penalty at close focus will fool you out of a stop or more if you forget to compensate. Hand-holding is possible but punishing. Today it is the cheapest way into real 6x7 with interchangeable backs, far less money than a Hasselblad and built like a bank vault, which is why portrait shooters and students keep buying them. Get one that has been serviced, check the seals on the backs, and it will outlive you.
How the app handles this body
- Metering: Take an incident or spot reading in the app and place your shadows on a chosen zone, then dial that exposure in. On a body with no meter, or one whose cell has drifted with age, the app is the meter you trust.
- Leaf shutter: The shutter sits in the lens, so it syncs flash at every speed instead of topping out at a body X-sync. Daylight fill stays open at any aperture, and the app's shutter ladder covers the leaf range.
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