Nikon · SLR · Nikon F
Nikon FE2
The Canon AE-1 sold more units. The Nikon FE2 was the better camera, and anyone who carried both knew it within a roll. Canon's A-series leaned into plastic and, with the AE-1 Program, a full program mode aimed at the consumer who wanted a green button. Nikon kept a metal body, kept aperture-priority with a real manual override, and gave the FE2 a shutter that ran to about 1/4000 when the AE-1 was wheezing out at 1/1000. That top speed mattered. It meant you could shoot a 50mm f/1.4 wide open in daylight and not blow the highlights, which is exactly the situation that sends most cameras of this era into a corner.
The shutter is the whole story here. It is a vertical-travel metal blade design, honeycomb titanium, and it syncs flash at 1/250, which was nearly unheard of in 1983 and is still respectable now. You hear it as a tight, mechanical thwip, not a clunk. Hold the body to your eye and the finder is bright and clean, a horizontal split-image at the center ringed by a microprism collar, and a center-weighted meter shown by a match-needle on the left side of the finder, running down a vertical shutter-speed scale. A second needle marks the speed the meter wants. Line your chosen speed up to it, or leave the body in A and let aperture-priority set the time. The meter is honest and quick. It is not a spot meter, and it does not pretend to be.
Build is the part people fall in love with. The FE2 is small for a system SLR, all copper alloy and aluminum, dense in the hand without being a brick. Film loads the ordinary Nikon way, no quirks. The one real catch is that the shutter is electronically timed, so a dead battery drops you to a single mechanical backup speed near 1/250 and bulb, and nothing else. Carry spare cells. The aging electronics are also the thing that eventually kills these bodies, and a proper CLA is not cheap when the magnets start to drift.
It anchors the Nikon F mount, which is the reason half the world's used-lens shelves exist. AI, AI-S, and later autofocus glass that still meters in manual all mount and work, and pre-AI lenses join them once they have been converted to AI, since the FE2's coupling tab does not fold out of the way. That is the cult argument for the FE2 today. You buy the body for a few hundred dollars and inherit forty years of optics. Students grew up on its cheaper sibling the FE, but working photographers and travelers reached for the FE2 because it could keep up with bright light and fast glass.
Where it earns its keep is contrast. The center-weighted meter averages, and a backlit portrait or a snowfield will fool it the same way it fools every averaging meter. For those frames, take an incident or spot reading off the Zone Light Meter app, place your shadows on the zone you actually want, and set the body in manual rather than trusting the needle. The FE2 rewards a photographer who knows where the exposure should land. Give it that, and it is one of the most quietly capable 35mm bodies Nikon ever made.
How the app handles this body
- Metering: Take an incident or spot reading in the app and place your shadows on a chosen zone, then dial that exposure in. On a body with no meter, or one whose cell has drifted with age, the app is the meter you trust.
- Flash sync: Focal-plane shutter, so flash sync tops out around 1/250. Above that the app's exposure pairs still hold for available-light work.