Rollei · TLR · Fixed lens
Rollei Rolleicord II
Rollei built the Rolleicord line as the budget sibling to the fancier Rolleiflex. Simpler winding, fewer frills, less money in 1936 and less money on the used shelf today. The II ran through the late 1940s, and plenty are still shooting now, because there is almost nothing inside to break. That is exactly why people love it.
You hold it at your waist and look down into a ground-glass screen, big and square, with the scene flipped left to right. That reversal trips everyone up for the first roll. Then your hands learn it and you stop thinking about it. The screen is bright in the center and dims toward the corners, which is the honest weakness of every TLR of this age, and you learn to focus on the middle and trust the rest. A flip-up magnifier helps you nail the ground glass on close work. The taking lens sits below the viewing lens, so parallax creeps in when your subject is near, something to remember on tight portraits.
The shutter is a leaf shutter that tops out around 1/300 and runs down to a full second. The slow speeds tend to drag and buzz after decades in storage, until someone cleans them. There is no mirror, so there is no slap. The release is a soft mechanical tick. You can shoot it in a quiet room and nobody looks up. Twelve frames of 6x6 on a roll of 120, loaded by threading the paper backing across and watching the red window on the back.
There is no meter. None. Rollei never built one into the II, so you are placing every exposure yourself, and that is where an incident or spot reading from the Zone Light Meter app earns its keep. Read the shadows, set the aperture and that 1/300-down shutter, and shoot. Because the leaf shutter syncs flash at every speed up to its top, you can drag a daylight-fill flash at 1/300 wide open, something a focal-plane camera of the same era simply cannot do.
What you get for your money today is a real medium-format negative from a camera that costs less than a decent zoom lens. People cross-shop it against the Yashica-Mat and the later Rolleiflex Automat, and the honest answer is that the Rolleicord is slower to use and the finder is dimmer than a postwar body. But the Zeiss Triotar on the front holds its own, and the whole thing is compact and easy to carry for a medium-format body. Buy one with a clean shutter and an intact film advance, ignore the missing meter, and you have a camera that will keep working long after the gear that replaced it has died.
How the app handles this body
- Metering: Take an incident or spot reading in the app and place your shadows on a chosen zone, then dial that exposure in. On a body with no meter, or one whose cell has drifted with age, the app is the meter you trust.
- Leaf shutter: The shutter sits in the lens, so it syncs flash at every speed instead of topping out at a body X-sync. Daylight fill stays open at any aperture, and the app's shutter ladder covers the leaf range.